Short Ribs Alla Genovese

The name of this dish is thoroughly misleading. While it would lead you to think it was from Genoa, it is actually a traditional Neapolitan recipe that predates the arrival fo tomatoes to the region. No one has been able to explain the connection to Genoa with certainty, as no similar sauce exists there. One story suggests that it was made for visiting Genoese merchants, as both Genoa and Naples have Lon boasted bustling ports.

Neapolitans do, however, generally agree on what goes into the sauce. As with the classic ragu alla napoletana, ragu alla genovese is more about the sauce than the meat. In this case, onions take center stage, with a bit of carrot and celery playing supporting roles, accompanied by a small amount of meat. Traditionally, the sauce is served with pasta, and the meat follows as a second course. Campania has become more prosperous, however, so it is no longer unusual to see the meat served with the sauce, as we do at the restaurant. We serve chicken, duck, and octopus alla Genovese as well, but these short ribs have evolved into an A16 classic. You can also cook this sauce without any meat and serve it with pasta for a so-called finta Genovese, or "fake Genovese."

When buying short ribs, look for thicker, meatier cuts that come from the chuck end. We braise 2-4-rib slabs, but you can also use individual ribs cut from the slab. If you use boneless short ribs, decrease the braising time to about 1 3/4 hours. Avoid short ribs cross-cut for Asian preparations (they are a thinner, more sinewy, less meaty cut). Season the short ribs with salt at least a day before you prepare the dish. Serve with Gardiniera, Braised Cannelini Beans with Garlic, Marjoram & Oregano, or Braised Chard with Garlic, Anchovy & Lemon.

If trying to do the short ribs ahead of time, you can cook the recipe through entirely a day in advance of serving. I've included reheating instructions below.

Serves 6.